at the present day would be a curious question to solve."
Petersons Magazine 1866
"Dressing The Hair - Whatever fashion may be in vogue,
the darker shades of hair should be dressed as smooth
and made to look as glossy as possible;
whilst on the other hand, the fair and golden locks
should be opened up and dressed as lightly and
zephyr-like as possible. Curl and flowing wave, not crimps,
catching the rays of light, are the peculiar attractions of light hair."
- Petersons Magazine 1866
Godey's Lady's Book
1870 hairstyles show an increase in the volume of hair...
more and more hairpieces are added...
Godey's Lady's Book ~ 1872
"Tortoise-shell combs are worn high, at the head of the light flowing braids which form so graceful a headdress, provided they are light and sunbering. A ribbon is simply drawn through the hair in front, but all the art is required in the way the ribbon is pulled through. It has to wind and look as if it did but meander as naturally as a rivulet in mossy banks."
"Figures 6, 7, 8 & 9 ~ Headdress for Morning
This headdress is a very simple manner of dressing the hair.
Two braids of hair are tied on the head by a piece of tape; the
waved hair passes over this. Fig. 7 shows the manner of
arranging the braids, Fig. 9 shows the front placed already on
the rolls, Fig. 8 shows a back view of the chignon. Draw the hair
backwards, excepting a very slight portion, which is rolled up at
the ear, and fasten the waved front hair under the braids.
The ends of the ribbon on which the front hair is arranged are tied
together underneath the back hair. Then comb the waved front
towards the side and underneath the back hair. Then comb the
waved front hair towards the sides from Fig. 9, fasten the ends of
the same underneath the back of the hair; then comb upwards that
part of your own hair which has remained unnoticed, fasten the
ends likewise underneath the back hair, which is rolled up
and fastened. Then fasten the chignon from Fig. 8,
covering the tape of the front hair. Complete the
headdress with jet pins, having the shape of stars."